The 5 Tests in Order
10 minutes total. Have a flashlight; you're checking the main panel. DO NOT remove the panel cover (live electrical work requires a Master Electrician).
Total time: PT10M
- Step 01
Read the main breaker amperage
Open the panel door (NOT the cover). The main breaker at the top is labeled with its amperage rating: 100, 125, 150, 200, 225, or 400. If the rating isn't visible, look at the panel label inside the door — it lists the maximum service. Most pre-1990 MA homes: 100A or 125A. Most post-2000: 200A. Result: if you see <200A, you have the data point for tests 4-5. - Step 02
Count breaker slots used vs available
Count populated breaker slots (each switch = 1 slot). Count empty slots. Old panels: 16-30 slots total. Modern 200A panels: 30-42 slots. If your panel is fully populated with NO empty slots, you can't add new circuits without either a subpanel or upgrade. If you have 4+ empty slots, you have room for moderate additions without upgrade. - Step 03
Check for dangerous panel brands (replace regardless of size)
Look at the brand on the inside of the panel door. Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) Stab-Lok, Zinsco / Sylvania, Pushmatic / Bulldog = known fire safety hazards (breakers fail to trip during overcurrent). These brands warrant replacement regardless of amperage. Newer brands (Square D QO/Homeline, Eaton CH/BR, Siemens, GE) are safe. - Step 04
Estimate planned electrification load
List planned additions: heat pump (~25-40A continuous), heat pump water heater (~5A), EV charger (~40-48A continuous), induction range (~30-40A), electric dryer (~22A continuous after demand factor). Sum the additions. If existing panel + additions exceeds 80% of main breaker rating, you need NEC Article 220 calc — at minimum. - Step 05
Get NEC Article 220 dwelling unit load calc from electrician
The definitive test. A licensed Master Electrician runs the NEC Article 220 calculation incorporating: existing fixed loads at demand factors, general lighting load by sq ft, heat pump or AC at 100% (continuous), EV charger at 100% (continuous). Result = required service in amps. If > 80% of existing main breaker rating, upgrade is recommended; if > 100%, upgrade is mandatory before adding the planned loads.
Mass Save $4K Panel Rebate Path
The Mass Save panel upgrade rebate ($4,000) requires the panel work to be PAIRED with an electrification project (heat pump install OR HPWH install OR EV charger install). Standalone panel upgrades don't qualify.
Net cost example for typical 2,200 sq ft home upgrading 100A to 200A panel + adding heat pump:
- Panel upgrade: $2,400-$4,000
- Mass Save rebate: -$4,000 (when paired with heat pump)
- Net panel cost: $0-$0 (rebate covers or exceeds upgrade cost)
For full electrification roadmap including panel sequencing see our whole-home electrification roadmap.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace my own electrical panel in Massachusetts?
How long does a 200-amp panel upgrade take in MA?
What's the difference between 200A and 400A service?
How do I find a Federal Pacific or Zinsco panel?
Will my electric bill change after a panel upgrade?
Do I need a permit for a sub-panel addition vs full panel replacement?
What's the lifespan of a modern 200A panel?
How much does electrical inspection cost during home purchase?
References & Sources
- NEC Article 220 — Branch-Circuit, Feeder, and Service Calculations. https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/all-codes-and-standards/list-of-codes-and-standards/detail?code=70
- 527 CMR Massachusetts Electrical Code amendments. https://www.mass.gov/regulations/527-CMR-12-massachusetts-electrical-code-amendments
- Mass Save panel upgrade rebate program. https://www.masssave.com/saving/residential-rebates
- U.S. CPSC — FPE Stab-Lok safety guidance. https://www.cpsc.gov/


